Move to the mountains if you want free retinol
Lessons from out west, an interview with my rockstar of a Wyoming godmother, Jackson Hole tricks of the trade, and a discussion on zip codes
Last week out west, I developed a weird fascination for hummingbirds. I learned that after traveling to warm, faraway places during the winter, they’re known to return to their original locales come summer – The same exact bird feeders or gardens that they left. Jackson Hole is the bird feeder I just can’t seem to leave behind. I lived there on and off during the pandemic, and very gratefully keep finding myself back there…
My most recent trip to Jackson included my parents and a lovely stay with our family friends, The Hardies, in Wilson, WY. The Hardies are Jackson local legends who have gone above and beyond in serving their town and engraining themselves in their community. While every trip to Jackson typically includes many long hikes, bike rides, floats, and lake hangs, this trip was extra special in that we lived like the Hardies – Going to church, attending summer concerts at the Center for Arts, and marching for the Teton Country Democratic Party in the 4th of July parade. As a kid born and raised in a big city, these activities feel extra special – I love feeling a part of a small town community where everyone seems to know one another and just radiate happiness. There’s a certain “mountain glow” that Jackson locals carry and which most New Yorkers try to replicate through expensive skin products. Money can’t buy this type of glow, though. It’s this palpable energy of feeling shamelessly happy, present, and connected to nature. TLDR; everyone there is just beautiful.
As a former, glowy Jackson resident turned retinol-buying New Yorker, myself, I face an acute identity crisis when I return as a visitor. I hate getting off the plane and blending-in with the other flocking Jackson tourists. I also hate feeling like the sell-out who moved to NYC to work a “real job” among my Jackson friends and old co-workers. Most of these people are right where I left them, working 4-5 jobs like waitressing, nannying, ski lift operating, raft guiding, etc. While wearing multiple hats (literally), being outside most of the day, and having a flexible work schedule still sound like an incredibly ideal lifestyle to me, I also do have a side of myself with a strong corporate drive and love for urban living that makes me feel different from most of my Jackson peers. I’m not the ski bum I used to be, yett, at the same time, I feel more in-line with this lifestyle than I do with the typical NYC corporate hustle culture that I’m surrounded by in my current life. It’s a weird identity crisis of not totally belonging in either environment.
In recognizing this, I’ve come up with two solutions: 1. Move to San Francisco or Sydney where I can do the city + outdoors lifestyle all in one OR 2. Learn to be happy and fill my cup regardless of my zip code; take less pressure off the location, itself, and find a “home” within myself, wherever I go (preferred). Currently, this means adopting the mountain town mindset and lifestyle that I know and love and bringing it to New York:
Park/garden hangs – I’m not talking Central Park. I’m talking Elizabeth Street Garden, McCarren, etc.
NY public libraries
Vital Fitness climbing gym
Live music (Skinny Dennis, naturally)
E-biking everywhere
Barrow’s Pub
Flowy skirts
Eventually open a cool lodge / general store. I’m obsessed with the out-west lodge concept – a place for community gathering, home cooked meals, trinkets, rustic wood buildings, etc. In NYC, these exist as the “shoppy shops.” I’m talking something way better…
Most importantly, it means community involvement – Investing in your people as well as strangers, volunteering, going to the open mic night, attending your neighbor’s gallery opening, etc. On this…
An interview with Jackson Hole’s best kept local secret who reminds us of the importance of building roots and investing in our communities:
Leslye Hardie, who I call my “godmother” despite not officially being my godmother, is one of my biggest life inspirations and mentors. She sits high on my “board of life advisors” – A list of women who I love, aspire to, and go to for all things. When it comes to topics like this, Lesyle is someone I admire for how she has built a beautiful, enriching life that centers around a deep love for community and only just so happens to be in the most beautiful town in America.
Leslye and my mom met through their boyfriends at the time when they were both living and working in Houston, TX in their twenties. They quickly decided to ditch the boys and become best friends, themselves, which has lent itself to 40+ years of best friendship. After many fun years navigating early adulthood together, their paths split when my mom eventually moved to DC to continue pursuing her career in real estate, and Leslye quit her job to start a new life and waitress in Jackson Hole. She’s been there ever since.
1. How important do you think PLACE (your zip code) is in defining who you are and what you want your life to look like?
“I think PLACE is only defined by the community you build for yourself through friendships, shared passions to preserve the place and what you do to make it a better place for others. The most beautiful geography on the planet can be very empty without the above.”
2. How has PLACE influenced who you are today?
“Moving here from the South 35 years ago changed my life completely. Many of the expected paths and requirements of southern life suddenly seem very limiting and restricted. Leaving a place where life is fairly scripted to a totally unscripted place does take a bit of bravery and an ability to be open.”
3. What's one important lesson that Jackson has taught you over the years?
“Living in a city by necessity has you sorting people quite quickly based on assumptions or bias or experiences. Mountain town life teaches you that there is much to learn and gain from all sorts of people who could save or enrich your life. We are all mostly far away from family in mountain towns so everyone needs to look after each other. Winters can be long and it is easy to feel isolated and I think this is especially true with younger people. Make your community strong and include all ages and interests. Listen to those who have been in the area for awhile rather than trying to make your new home just like the one in your rear view mirror. Start conversations with people. Housing and marriages and deep friendships have started here by engaging someone in a line for coffee. The cross connections of the people who are drawn to the mountains are legendary.”
4. Knowing how much the town of Jackson has changed over the years and all of the amazing work that you and Uncle David are doing to keep the original JH spirit alive, what's one message you'd like to send on behalf of the town to future visitors?
“Volunteer. Respect the place. Leave every trail in better shape than you found it. Never stop exploring. Learn to identify the birds. Remain capable of awe.”
5. An out-west inspired summer recipe/meal you'd like to share!
“Favorite summer salad for company”
Salad: Spring greens, radicchio, sugar peas, radishes, oven roasted cherry tomatoes Vinaigrette: Dijon, garlic, white wine vinegar, salt, pepper, olive oil
Jackson Hole tricks of the trade
I’d be remised if I didn’t share my Jackson Hole favorites. While you can find all of the usual recs with one quick Google search (Persephone’s, Cowboy Bar, etc), below are some of my favorite moments that will have you feeling like the local you CAN(!) be:
Hiking: Pick-up the veggie sandwich at Healthy Being Café (while you wait, visit the new history museum next door) and head to the park to hike either Delta Lake, Paintbrush Loop, or Death Canyon. Apres-hike at Dornan’s at the park entrance or Snake River Brewery in town
Biking: Bike from town up to the park, take a left on Moose Wilson Rd, pass Teton Village, and head into Wilson for a break and bev + poke bowl + chips and guac at Stagecoach before continuing back on the bike path into town
Swimming: Float down Fish Creek in Wilson on a tube and end at Pearl Street Bagels for a bagel Sammy and Sport Tea and relaxing on the swing or bring said bagels to R Park or String Lake for a beach day
Running: Run up Josie’s Ridge and down the Snow King face, depending on time of day end run at Bin 22 for a glass of wine and cheese plate that will go down QUITE easy (queue @Kara Wilson and I’s favorite memory) or for a latte and croissant at Picnic
Being: Summer nights at The Bird in Melody Ranch or on the deck outside of Calico, pre-airport breakfast and trip reminiscing at Nora’s Fishcreek Inn in Wilson
A discussion on zip codes
A new dawn of remote/flexible work, the rise of the creator economy, and brands like AirBnb and Kindred are making our generation think differently about where and how we choose to “settle” – Do we really even need to settle? If everyone’s talking about how younger generations can’t afford to buy homes, should we even try to? Why choose the city or the mountains when we can do both! Curious what people think on traveling and experiencing vs establishing roots and community building…
Clever writing in every way. Always remember that you are my brave, adventurous hero. You turned the pandemic into an opportunity by looking for the next adventures. I will be interested to watch your journey ❤️